2022 Sylvain Pataille Bourgogne Aligoté Les Auvonnes au Pépé

If you've never had Aligoté before - this is an incredible place to start. Back in the turn of the 20th Century when they were delineating Burgundy lieu dits and villages officially, they only really included Pinot Noir and Chardonnay as part of their designation. At that point - Aligoté wasn't treated with much reverence. As a result, a lot of Aligotė vines were pulled out. If the growers couldn't sell their wine at a more premium village or premier cru, why would they keep this variety? 

Aligoté nearly became extinct as a result. But a handful of growers saw its beauty and because of them we are seeing a resurgence of this variety- particularly in Côte Chalonnaise where Aubert de Villaine grew up (until 2021 was the co-director of Domaine de la Romanée Conti - one of the most revered and expensive producers in Burgundy, if not the world.) 

Sylvain Pataille has a way with Aligoté - there are some imprints of Chardonnay but we find it often more savoury. It's also often a wonderful way to try a producer's wines in Burgundy at a slightly more favourable price. For how long this will last - we're not sure! 

'Produced from a small plot west of Marsannay village in the lieu-dit En Auvone that was originally owned by Pataille’s grandfather, who planted it in the 1930s, this wine is a beautiful introduction to Pataille’s single-vineyard Aligoté range. Grapefruit and apricot fruit with structure and power on the palate, but enough pleasant, lemony brightness to bring balance.' - Charles Curtis MW, Decanter. 

Where: Marsannay, Burgundy, France

When: 2022

What: Aligoté

How: A bowl full of mussels cooked in white wine and cream. Frites optional.